For gardeners who want to optimize their results, the Zone System is indispensable.

The Zone System was created by the USDA (U.S. Dept of Agriculture) and divides the country into eleven zones. The divisions are based on the minimum average winter temperature with zone 1 the coldest, zone 11 the warmest. Maps of the zone system are readily available online and they’re very helpful for pinpointing which zone you’re in.

The USDA Zone System isn’t the only one around, however. Sunset, the famed gardening publication company, developed its own system, and it is even more extensive. The Sunset Western Climate zone system has 24 divisions for the western portion of North America, with additional zones (A1-A3) for Alaska and Hawaii (H1-H3).

    [The Zones are:

    Cold and Snowy: 1-3

    Rainy Northwest Zones:4-6

    Northern and Interior-alley California Zones: 7-9, 14-17

    Southern California: 18-24

    Southwest Desert Zones: 10-13]

Sunset uses more than just minimum winter temperatures. Its algorithm also includes summer temperatures, annual rainfall, elevation, humidity and other climate factors such as marine and mountain geography. But that’s not all. The Sunset system factors in the length of the growing season â€" by examining the average number of days between the beginning of Spring and the first frost of Fall.

Even with all this extensive information, zones can be divided into micro-climates, for those who want to narrow down their area as much as possible. Some areas like the panhandle of Northern Idaho are protected from the harshest Winter weather by its unique configuration of mountains. Just on the other side, Montana has much more severe weather.

Mountain slopes can channel warm or cold air into an area in the same way they keep other influences out. In the wine growing region of Southern California, for example, the narrow gap in which most of the vineyards sit, traps hot summer air. At the same time the valleys get a cool breeze in the evening from the nearby Pacific Ocean. The combination of these (and other) factors creates a zone that’s perfect for growing wine grapes.

Using micro-climate information, it’s possible to grow some plants that otherwise you might suspect wouldn’t thrive (if you considered only the zone number). There are limits, however. Lemon trees will still do better in Southern California than they do in Eastern Washington.

Some experimentation will always be needed to determine which plants will grow best in your particular environment. But using the zone system as a starting guide will help you avoid costly mistakes. You can grow a plant that’s rated, say, as hardy up to Zone 5. But if you live in a Zone 2 you are almost certainly wasting your time and money in that instance.

Since the hardiness of a plant is largely genetic, there is little you can do to adjust the plant, apart from hybridization. But selecting which plants thrive best in which zones is a straightforward exercise. There’s ample information online to guide you.

-The Fixie Chix

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Sunset Western Garden Book Online is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

Where to Download Free Shed Plans and Woodworking Patterns For Your Project

Author: Ryan Henderson

If you are planning on building a garden or storage shed you will need some type of plan. It doesn't matter if you are a novice or a pro, you need guidelines. There are many sources to obtain free shed blueprints and plans. If you are a novice and the word blueprint scares you, relax. These are simple detailed drawings that show everything that you are going to need to know to build your shed. They are no different than a travel map. It simply tells you that you need to travel from one step to the next, and what you need to get there.

So why bother with free shed plans? How often have you purchased an item, and then when you got it home, you wished you had bought the deluxe version, or vice versa? It's the same with plans. You go to all the trouble of picking one, purchasing it, then get it home, and for one of several reasons it just isn't want you want. If its free, then you have lost nothing, you can just go and find another one. You can do this several times if you need to until you find the perfect one for you.

Ok it's a great idea. Now where do we go to find these free shed blueprints and plans? To start with you could check out your local home improvement stores. Some of these have some great options. They often will have a series of standard plans in stock. They will give some of these to you free of charge, in the hopes that you will buy your materials from them. These plans usually consist of the majority of items they carry in their store. Some of them have even written their own series.

Another option is take in a rough sketch of the details of what you are looking for. Many building suppliers will draft up blueprints and plans for you. They may offer to do this for you with some type of commitment that you will purchase supplies from them. Sometimes they will offer this as free deal as a promotion.

Then there is always the internet. Lots of sites are willing to give away the prints and plans for free. One such example is MyShedPlans. Not because they are generous, but because they hope it will entice you to purchase some of the other items they carry.

These items are usually applicable to what they are giving you at no charge. For example if they give you all the drawings and plans you need., then you are going to have to know how to do the things that the plan says. This is where the extras come in. Perhaps the company that gave you the free shed plans sells some self help, or do it yourself books.

They would be pleased to sell these to you. This is not being sneaky. In fact its an excellent business proposal. They help you identify what you need and then offer support where you need it. With the combination of your plans, and the self help books you need, you're ready to build one good looking shed!

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/internet-articles/where-to-download-free-shed-plans-and-woodworking-patterns-for-your-project-607832.html

About the Author
Ryan is the founder of MyShedPlans - http://www.MyShedPlans.com Download your free shed kits at MyShedPlans Official Site. Want to build sheds and woodworking projects the EASY Way? Then get over 12,000 garden shed and outdoor & woodworking plans to make shed building fun and easy. MyShedPlans - The Easiest Way To Build Remarkable Sheds And Woodwork

Shed Plans is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

Proper Centipede Lawn Care

Author: Steve Stout

Proper Centipede Lawn Care

 Centipede Grass needs a low-nitrogen, fertilizer without phosphorus or potassium (9-0-0).  Fertilizing with a nitrogen percentage of more than 9 more than twice a year will harm Centipede turf and promote lawn disease, weeds, and insect infestation.  I use corn glutton meal (a fertilizer but also a pre-emergent broadleaf weed controller) in early spring and early fall.  There is no weed and feed product on the market that will do more good than harm to Centipede grass.  Centipede grass can be effectively greened up using lawn sulfur.  Sulfur lowers soil pH but Centipede's ideal pH is Acidic (4.5 to 5.5) so there is little danger of lowering the pH too much.

Healthy Centipede grass requires more micronutrients than macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium).    Soil amendments should contain vitamins B-1, B-12, gibberellins, indoles, auxins as well as trace elements of boron, iron, zinc, cobalt, copper, manganese, molybdenum and sulfur.  These nutrients should be chelated, meaning they are instantly available to the grass. They should be salt and chlorine free to be safe for the plant and the soil.  The soil amendment I use is a liquid product containing cold-water kelp, humic acid, and molasses.   This contains 30+ natural trace elements and plant growth hormones.  This should be used instead of fertilizer during the spring and summer months for the best results.

The lawn should be aerated at least once a year.  I use a liquid aerator instead of mechanical methods.  I have found this to be faster and much more effective.  Mechanical means of aerating penetrate the ground only about 3 inches where the liquid penetrates 6-8 inches relieving compaction (especially in clay soils) and allowing roots to develop deeper in the soil for better drought survival.

Centipede lawns develop thatch quickly.  Again, I use a liquid dethatcher over mechanical means.  Liquid dethatchers contain bacteria and enzymes that quickly decompose thatch and all other dead organic matter returning their nutrients to the soil.  The end product of decomposing action is humus (nutrient rich top soil).  Rich soil has a humus layer of 6-8 inches with a carbon level of 12-14 percent.  The average lawn has a humus level of 3/8 to ½ inch with a carbon percentage of 2.  Liquid dethatchers quickly and naturally build humus.

Irrigation: Irrigate only when the grass shows signs of moisture stress, such as off color, wilting or rolling leaves. Then apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 4 to 8 inches. This generally requires about 1 inch of water, which should last 7 to 10 days. Early morning is the best time to irrigate, while evening irrigation is more efficient.  Too much or too little irrigation causes lawn diseases. 

Mowing/Mulching puts back in your lawn nutrients both macro nutrients (N-P-K) and the necessary micro nutrients (vitamins B-1, B-12, gibberellins, indoles, auxins as well as trace elements of boron, iron, zinc, cobalt, copper, manganese, molybdenum and sulfur.)  All organic matter decomposes into humus (fertile topsoil) quickly when the biological dethatcher is applied.  Leaves should also be mulched into the lawn.  They have excellent humus building properties.

A healthy Centipede lawn is weed free, insect free, and an asset to the value of your home.

Centipede Grass Deficiency Symptoms:

Nitrogen – Nitrogen deficiency is rarely a problem with Centipede Grass. 

Potassium – Most grasses use potassium to build cells and tissue.  Centipede grass however, is not like most grasses and handles potassium poorly. 

Phosphorus – Potassium is harmful to the root systems of Centipede Grass.

Micronutrients and trace elements handle this job in Centipede grass.

Plants require smaller amounts of the secondary macronutrients-sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Iron, manganese, zinc, copper, chlorine, boron, and molybdenum are still essential for growth but are required in even smaller amounts. They are often referred to as micronutrients or trace elements. Each of these macro- and micronutrients serves specific purposes for our grass.

Magnesium – Centipede foliage will appear yellowish green with red tinted edges.  Even though it's classified as a secondary macronutrient, magnesium is still critical for growth. Without magnesium, plants can't use light to make food through photosynthesis!  Plants also need magnesium to be able to take in their other essential nutrients and to make seeds. 

Calcium – New leaves will be small and grass will be rust colored.  As with sulfur, Centipede grasses also need calcium to make proteins. Calcium promotes new root growth and facilitates overall plant vigor. 

Sulfur – Fully-grown leaves turn yellow.  One of the secondary macronutrients, sulfur helps plants maintain their dark green color. Mainly, plants use sulfur to create essential proteins.  In Centipede grasses, sulfur is essential for nitrogen-fixing nodules, and necessary in the formation of chlorophyll. Plants use sulfur in the processes of producing proteins, amino acids, enzymes and vitamins. Sulfur also helps the plant's resistance to disease, aids in growth, and in seed formation.

Iron – The new grass will turn yellow.  Iron makes for healthy, dark green growth. As with magnesium, iron is essential for photosynthesis.  Iron is necessary for chlorophyll formation, and without it, plants wouldn't be able to carry out essential cellular functions. 

Manganese – The new grass turns yellow.  In short, manganese makes things happen. Manganese is necessary for chlorophyll formation, and without it, grasses would not be able to carry out essential cellular functions. 

Zinc – Grass leaves will appear shriveling, narrow bladed and smaller than usual.  Plants use zinc in conjunction with other elements to carry out many natural processes including forming chlorophyll.

Boron – Yellowed grassing and immature growth.  Centipede grasses don't need much of it, but boron does facilitate nutrient uptake and it helps plants to grow new tissue. 
Molybdenum – Fully grown and mature grass appears gray-green.  Grasses need molybdenum to produce essential proteins.  

Copper – Copper contributes too many natural processes including plant metabolism and reproduction. 

Centipede decline

In mature Centipedegrass lawns (3 or more years old) problem areas sometimes appear in the spring and grow worse throughout the summer. These problem areas usually develop in thatchy turf, compacted soils, drought areas or areas under other stresses. Since a specific disease organism has not been identified as the cause, the problem has been broadly named "Centipede decline" and is used to describe the most common problems observed on Centipedegrass. These include dollar spot, large patch, fairy rings, nematodes, ground pearls and nutritional problems.

Symptoms: the grass gradually deteriorates and is replaced by weeds or other invassive grasses. The grass often greens up in early spring, but gradually turns off color, wilts and dies. These areas resemble Centipedegrass suffering from drought conditions.

Examination of the turf in these areas reveals little root development. Many of the stolons, or runners, have no root attachment to the soil. Some small discolored roots may be found in the thatch, or the organic layer. The grass may be dead in the center of the discolored area with often dark green, leaves radiating into the healthy grass.
Dollar spot is a disease that is often seen on centipedegrass during the summer. The symptoms of this disease are light brown spots 2 to 4 inches in diameter. It does not appear to cause serious damage. Centipedegrass that is declining because of other factors may have more dollar spot than nearby healthy grass. The grass may continue to decline in the affected patches, especially in dry weather, for a long time after the disease activity has stopped. 

Fairy rings:  Fairy ring symptoms are large circular dead spots, dead rings, or green rings (3 to 20 feet in diameter) that enlarge for several years. Mushrooms of the fungi that cause this disease may be present at the edge of the rings or throughout the circles sometime during the year. Mushrooms may not develop for several years and suddenly appear following a weather pattern that induces mushroom development. Effective treatments are not known for fairy rings in lawns, however, rototilling the soil and replanting healthy grass has eliminated the problem in some cases.  Note:  Mushrooms not in a circular pattern are not a sign of Fairy ring.  Mushrooms often develop over dead tree roots as part of the decomposition process. 

Sting Nematodes have been associated with the decline in sandy soils in some cases. The sting nematode has been shown to cause very serious damage on Centipedegrass in sandy soils in the Carolinas. Centipedegrass affected by this nematode will become thin and even die during hot-dry weather. Incorporation of organic matter in the soil may help overcome nematode damage; however, care must be taken to avoid too much nitrogen being released for Centipedegrass.

Ground pearls are small scale insects that attack the roots of Centipedegrass and may cause circular dead areas that resemble fairy ring. The spots enlarge each year and only weeds grow in the spots. Ground pearls are identified by the presence of small pearl-like bodies on the roots or in the soil. The pink adult stage that crawls is present during early summer. A control is not known for the ground pearls. Other types of grass, such as Bermuda grass or Bahia grass, appear to be less sensitive to ground pearls and should be considered for lawns with severe ground pearl problems. 

Nutritional factors, including low potassium levels in sandy soils, high phosphorus levels, the use of too much nitrogen fertilizer, and low or high soil pH (5.5 is best) have been associated with the problem. High soil pH will cause Centipedegrass to turn bright yellow, especially in the spring, due to iron deficiency (iron chlorosis). High phosphorus levels can increase iron chlorosis since it can replace iron in the plant. The use of fertilizers high in phosphorus may contribute to the decline of Centipedegrass.  High nitrogen caused the stolons to be above the soil where they are more susceptible to damage by cold weather. More centipede decline usually occurs in the spring and summer following very cold winters or following winters with unusually warm weather and then late cold periods. Excess nitrogen reduces cold and drought tolerance of Centipedegrass.   Potassium may help to reduce stress during the summer and winter.

Centipedegrass is not very drought tolerant and is damaged during very dry weather. Irrigation when needed will help reduce damage from drought stress. Localized dry spots of soil that are hydrophobic (difficult to wet) have been associated with declining patches of Centipedegrass. The soil in these patches needs extra aeration.  
The use of chemical/synthetic herbicides (as sprays or in fertilizers) has been associated with the decline problem.  Once a good stand of Centipedegrass is established, weeds usually are not a problem because of the allelopathic activities that Centipedegrass has against other plants. Therefore, herbicides should not be needed on Centipede grass if it is managed properly.

Centipedegrass is not very shade-tolerant and does not grow well under trees with dense foliage. Root competition from nearby trees may increase drought stress and sometimes causes fairy ring-like symptoms. The landscape should be redesigned to use mulch or shade-tolerant groundcover plants in these areas if the trees cannot be removed.

Centipedegrass will usually spread over dead areas more rapidly if the old grass is removed and the soil loosened (aerated). New sprigs or overseeding in the areas will facilitate faster recovery.

Control: Cultural practices provide the most effective means of preventing centipede decline.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/proper-centipede-lawn-care-1877037.html

About the Author

The author has been involved in lawn care for over 25 years.  Owns and operates Stout Services Lawn Care Plus in South Carolina. 

He can be contacted at (843) 639-5229 or emailed at store@swstout.com.

Product Web Site: http://www.theorganiclawncarestore.com/

Lawn Care Guide is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

Discover the Best Ways to Choose the Perfect Garden Storage Shed Plan

Author: Ryan Henderson

Need a place to store your yard accessories? Do you love to garden, but don't have room for all the stuff? Then you should add storage shed to your garden. And yes, you could store your gardening supplies in your garage, but a storage shed provides distinct advantages over your garage.

First, you will separate the potentially harmful chemicals, such as fertilizers, in your shed and keep them away from children & animals. Second, you can create a space specifically designed for storing garden accessories, tools & equipment. Deciding which shed to choose can be overwhelming-one Google search for "garden sheds" brings up over 1.2 million websites!-so I have devised a checklist that will streamline your storage shed plan.

First, decide what type of material to for your storage shed; various types of plans exist to build a shed from scratch, or you can use the readymade sheds, also available in many different types of materials. Sheds have traditionally been made out of wood, but recently companies like Rubbermaid have been selling "click-together" sheds made from vinyl or plastic. Metal is a material to consider for your shed design, especially if you live in hurricane-prone areas, because it allows for a durability and protection not provided for by wood & vinyl. You can even choose a greenhouse for your shed design plans and keep growing plants all throughout the winter!

Second, you need to decide on the purpose for the shed-are you going to use it for storing small items like flower pots & gardening utensils? Then you should choose a small shed design; however, if you want to store a lawnmower, weed eater & other large tools, you should choose the larger shed design.

Third, consider your personal design style when choosing storage shed plan. Storage sheds come in a variety of architectural shapes that will compliment your home & outdoor design. A traditional gable roof style can provide additional storage for larger equipment such as bikes or pool supplies. A smaller, 20 cubic feet shed has a lift-top roof and provides smaller, more compact storage for lawn cushions & flower pots.

Fourth, when choosing a shed design, you want to consider the dimensions of the shed. Take into account factors such as the amount of storage the shed provides (small -20 cubic feet; large-400+ cubic feet), the interior dimensions & door opening (especially if you are going to store larger items such as a riding mower), the recommended foundation size for the shed (if the foundation has to be poured before installation), as well as if the shed comes with a floor. Before you install your storage shed, plan to contact your local code authority, as laws vary from state to state on if permits are required to build a shed.

Finally, consider the price. Garden shed plans can rage from 0 US to over 00 US and your budget will determine which style, type and brand of shed you choose.

So in conclusion, when choosing a shed plan for your garden be sure to consider the sheds

1. Material
2. Purpose
3. Your personal design style
4. Dimensions
5. Price

If chosen properly, a garden shed can provide useful storage and satisfaction for years to come.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/discover-the-best-ways-to-choose-the-perfect-garden-storage-shed-plan-606864.html

About the Author
Download your Free Shed Plans at MyShedPlans Official Site. Ryan is the founder of MyShedPlans - http://www.MyShedPlans.com Get over 12,000 free shed blueprints and plans to make shed building fun and easy. MyShedPlans - The Ultimate Craftsman Resource

Best Garden Sheds is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

DIY Pest Control - How to Rodent-Proof Your Home

Author: jamiehanson

By the end of this year, as the weather gets colder, an estimated 21,000,000 homes in the U.S. will be host to invading rodents seeking food and shelter. Once entrenched, these disease-carrying pests can cause great damage to both health and home. Equipped for survival Rats and mice are endowed with qualities that have enabled them to survive throughout millenniums. They can penetrate even the narrowest openings. Rats are known to pass through holes the size of a quarter, survive 50-foot drops and spring 3 feet vertically from tree branches to gain access to your home. Likewise, mice can gain entry by squeezing through crevices and gnawing through walls. Rats can chew their way through glass, lead and aluminum barriers, cinder blocks, and electrical wiring, usually causing fire. Rats constantly need to chew on objects, a natural instinct to trim down their sharp teeth. Rodents are hardy creatures and can survive in extreme environmental conditions. They can endure 10 degrees below freezing temperatures and can live with hardly any food or water. They have a life span of two years and can densely populate your home within months, being able to bear young almost every 24 days. Rodents can also carry and spread of a host of diseases inside your home. Rats have been known to spread typhus, food poisoning and the plague. Some mice species have hantavirus which can cause fatal respiratory diseases in humans. Rodent feces and urine in floodwaters have brought about Leptospirosis infection on humans, usually causing deaths. Counter-invasion tactics To prevent these marauding pests from making your house their home, perform these safeguards: - Check your home inside and out for signs of rodent infestation. Signs may include presence of rodent droppings in cabinets, gnaw marks on woodwork and foodstuff or rustling sounds behind walls. - Cover cracks and possible entrances larger than 1/4 inch with cement or sheet metal. - Never leave foodstuff out overnight, particularly in your kitchen. Store your food in metal or thick plastic containers. Keep your garbage containers covered. - Rid possible nesting sites like shelves and drawers of old newspaper, books, lumber or wood shavings. - Clean your surroundings. Cut tree limbs that hang over your house. Trim plants and bushes near the home to discourage rodent nesting. If rodents have infiltrated your home, the next choice is to set traps or poison to get rid of them, the method depending on how humane you'd want it to be. If you have children or pets, the safest option is to set traps rather than using poison. Pets may ingest the poison or consume the poisoned rodent and die. Poison can cause rats to die in hard-to-reach places like between walls and cause quite a stink that can linger for weeks. Capture devices Rat and mice traps come in various forms, including: - Traditional snap traps - have been around for decades and known for its ability to kill rodents instantly. - Glue traps - are uses very sticky glue in trays or boards. Rodents will get stuck, suffocate or slowly die from hunger and thirst. They contain no poison and safe around children and pets. - Live traps - are made to trap one or more rodents at a time, depending on the type, without killing them. - These do-it-yourself rodent proofing steps can save you a lot of problems in the long run and ensure that unwelcome pests stay where they ought to - outside your home.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/diy-pest-control-how-to-rodentproof-your-home-962194.html

About the Author

Dekorbeton make decorative concrete products that create deep wall textures such as natural stone or brick look giving you a cheap and effective home improvement. For your garden try Rock Dust to boost soil fertility, improving plant health and vigour.

Diy Pest Control is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

For garden sheds visit Sheds Direct on the web where you can browse the large and varied selection of garden sheds available from the UK's leading provider of garden buildings.|For a very wide selection of garden sheds, visit the leading provider of garden sheds and buildings in the UK, Sheds Direct.

Buying Garden Sheds for your garden is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape

The beauty of walkways comes from the aesthetic mix of both the materials used and the shapes they and the walkway's path take. Just as color can make them match or clash with the overall ambiance of your garden, their shape can either cut through the design or flow with it beautifully.

There are a variety of materials to make walkways from, each with its own design elements and functional properties. Interlocking concrete blocks and cobble-stone style bricks are the most popular choices. A bed of either heavy sand or small-pebbled gravel is usually laid and then the interlocking bricks are hammered into place using a wooden or rubber mallet. Bricks are laid in a similar fashion, being pressed together and tamped into place to firmly set them. This "floating" foundation allows the ground to heave with frost or moisture without dislocating the pathway.

Walkways are so integral to the design of a well-made garden than they are usually planned right from the beginning sketches and drawings before work even begins. Elements like bordering flowerbeds, concrete or rock edges, or bark strips are common walkway enhancers, defining the path's edges for the eye.

Well-made walkways will have a slope or "crown" to them (a hump in the middle) that allows water to drain off so that it does not puddle on the walkway. This makes the walkway safer to traverse, cleaner, and keeps puddles from forming for mosquitoes to congregate in. The bricks and stones used are usually well-textured so that they have a good frictional quality to give a good grip when walking on them, minimizing slipping and dangerous falls.

Other common elements that are included in walkways are casual seating areas (benches, platforms, etc.), handrails for bridges or raised areas, or lighting elements for nighttime ambiance, and perhaps a great pool background to enhance the whole area. Other additions such as bird baths, feeders, squirrel hutches, pet-friendly plants, and other additions can make lively animals move in and around the walkway to give great entertainment and life to the gardens around the walkway.

The Beauty Of Walkways is a post from: Popular Garden and Landscape